I have been searching for a mild tune for the Bimmer, and attempting to find one that meets my specific needs has been challenging. On these N63TU engines, Burger Motorsports seems to be the best bet, with their maximum gains of over 100 HP/TQ; however, as I will not be installing downpipes anytime soon (Colorado has strict policies), I do not believe that will be the route I should go. So, I needed to find a plug-and-play tuner that I could quickly remove (when I bring it into the dealer), and that would only push a marginal amount of power to help alleviate my reliability concerns. Enter RaceChip.

I found a discount code that works on a RaceChip S, the cheapest option, and purchased it for around $220. The RaceChip S boasts an improvement of +45 HP and +67 TQ, better gas mileage, and has 5 loaded maps consisting of different power levels; for that price range, there isn’t a cheaper option to get such a large performance boost. RaceChip, like many other tuning companies, achieves their power reporting less boost to trick DME into keeping the wastegate closed for longer, thus making more power. Unlike some of the other tuners, the RaceChip S doesn’t have too many safety features, like the ability to monitor knock, but again, at the power I want, this shouldn’t be a problem. especially since the factory safeguards are still in place. I will keep an eye on everything with my BimmerLink app on my cellphone, monitoring for knock retard, airflow, and overheating.

Why did I go with the RaceChip S? Well, due to the lack of 93 octane fuel near me, I will be running 91 mostly, which isn’t recommended for the max settings on various higher-performing tuning modules. So, I figure the RaceChip S will give me a small boost in power while minimizing knock and heat. Also, the more expensive RaceChip models include app functionality, which isn’t necessarily a dealbreaker to me since I will just find the setting that I like the most and keep it there. The most pricey RaceChip also comes with an engine warranty, but after a quick look at the conditions, it wouldn’t apply to me since it needs to have the factory BMW warranty still active (I only have a third-party extended warranty).

The Burger Motorsports BM3 module, Dinan X, and some complete custom tunes (Heatsync) were also all on my radar but cost 3-4 times more than what I paid, and are not as easy to install and remove. If I do end up liking the RaceChip S and it responds well to my car, I may upgrade to the RaceChip GTS at some point, offering around +68 HP and +100 TQ, or just make the switch to BM3 once my extended warranty runs out.

Currently, I have done the following to the car:

• RaceChip S Tuner
• Custom MagnaFlow dual exhaust (deleted both resonators, added 2 MagnaFlow straight-through mufflers, and an x-pipe)
• K&N drop-in air filters (no charcoal filters either)
• BimmerCode tuning: Alpina gauges, video in motion, etc.
• BimmerLink monitoring/gauges (cellphone)
• BMW emblem front license plate
• Carbon fiber wing
• Custom rear-seat entertainment system (2 headrest monitors/DVD/USB players)

With the RaceChip S, if you believe the figures, I should be just over 500 HP and 550 TQ just from the tune, and with the exhaust work I have done and upgraded air filters, I might pick up a few extra HP. I am sure RaceChips’ performance figures are on 93 octane gas in perfect conditions, but after seeing dyno results and reviews online, I should get close to the advertised improvements. Overall, for the low cost of my upgrades on such an expensive car, I should have a sport limo in no time. With the added K&N air filters ($120), custom exhaust ($600), and a RaceChip S ($220), I should have a substantial performance increase for under a grand.

To do:

• Fix/replace rims (road rash)
• Remove deteriorating paint protection film on the front of the car
• Paint/wrap chrome trunk trim
• Replace fuel door lock actuator (funny story)
• Custom front-facing cold air intake (or ARM Motorsports): Not required, but will sound better
• Replace windshield (pitting)
• Full window tints
• Possibly lowering links (need to add ramps on the driveway as I currently scrape a bit when the air suspension is fully lowered)
• Debadge, then add my already-purchased black emblems (I will probably keep the XDrive emblem off entirely)
• M Sport bumper grilles (middle, left, and right)
• Blue strut brace covers (with active grille shutters, I don’t know if this is worth it)
• Carbon fiber antenna cover
• Carbon fiber mirror covers
• Carbon fiber armrest cover
• M-style black grille (I would need to disable the active grill shutters, so not too keen on that)
• Audio: Coming from the 2016 STI, the factory H&K system is amazing, but looking into BavSound’s Ghost Subwoofer kit to replace the factory dual 8″ subwoofers, and possibly a larger amplifier

As my spark plugs were just replaced recently, I hope the RaceChip responds well and won’t require colder spark plugs, but that was on my to-do list anyway. I also would like to pick up a 90* thermostat to reduce engine temps a bit, as well as a front-facing air intake. Other than that, they offer transmission tunes that look appealing, as well as upgraded coil packs. Now comes the fun part, waiting for parts to get delivered!

Update: 5/21/24

The RaceChip finally came, and the installation was brutal. Germans must have small hands because it took forever to get underneath each intercooler to clip in the cables and my hands were scratched and raw afterwards. I didn’t run into any major issues besides breaking one clip (still functional), and on my first startup, the engine died right away; after that incident, the car has been running completely fine. While I had the car halfway out of the garage, I had to quickly cover up the rear of the car as it started to hail (always fun!).

For the RaceChip S, there are only two connections you need to make, both MAP sensors under the intercoolers; On the right side (connector A), the clip is on the drivers-side on the intercooler, and the passenger side is more towards the front of the engine. Merely finding these connections was impossible, as the instructions they give you are horrible, to say the least. But, now I know why there weren’t many pictures of the connections as you simply can’t see them.

After the installation, I opted for setting 1 at first, then took a test drive after everything warmed up. While it was raining, I did feel a bit of difference, mainly extending each gear to build more boost. After no check engine lights or knocking, I pushed the setting to 3 and will keep it there for a bit for the car to learn how to better handle the increased boost. After around 50 or so miles, I may try out setting 4 or 5, especially if I can find some 93 octane gas near me, or buy some octane boosters.

I was planning to take the ‘sport limo’ to work today, but it looks like it will thunderstorm again later, so more testing will have to wait. Overall, I am quite pleased with the product; only time will tell if I still feel that way.

Update 5/23/24

I have been playing around with the settings while driving it around for work for the past few days, and am currently on setting 5 (the highest setting). The car definitely pulls harder, but until I get a Dragy, I am unsure of the actual performance gains. I also need to find some 93 octane gas near me to help alleviate some of my knock concerns, but as of now, I am quite pleased at the power increase for such a relatively-cheap part. I have yet to notice any knocking or overheating, but trying to find a road for testing near Denver is pretty challenging (so much traffic). My hands are still hurting from the install, but it was all worth it. On to the next upgrade!